A Complete Guide to Dublin’s Literary Pubs: Where Literature and Libations Meet

Dublin’s rich literary heritage is inextricably linked with its historic pubs, where some of the world’s greatest writers found inspiration, friendship, and occasionally, refuge. This guide explores the most significant literary pubs in Dublin, where the ghosts of Joyce, Behan, and countless others still linger among the regulars.

Davy Byrnes – “The Moral Pub”

21 Duke Street

Immortalized in James Joyce’s “Ulysses” as the spot where Leopold Bloom enjoys his gorgonzola cheese sandwich and glass of burgundy, Davy Byrnes remains a literary landmark. Founded in 1889, this pub maintained a reputation as a “moral pub” during the lifetime of its original owner – a quality that attracted Joyce himself as a regular patron. Today, literary pilgrims still order Bloom’s lunch while admiring the pub’s original Art Deco features from the 1940s.

Literary Connection: Beyond Joyce, the pub was a favorite of Flann O’Brien and Patrick Kavanagh, who often argued about literature at the bar.

The Palace Bar

21 Fleet Street

A Victorian-era time capsule, The Palace Bar served as the unofficial office for the Irish Times newspaper for decades. The upstairs “Paradise Bar” hosted legendary literary gatherings where editors, journalists, and writers would meet to discuss the issues of the day. The pub’s connection to journalism continues, though now it’s more likely to be frequented by tourists seeking its famous Irish whiskey collection.

Literary Connection: Regulars included Flann O’Brien, Patrick Kavanagh, and Brendan Behan. The pub features in O’Brien’s novel “At Swim-Two-Birds.”

McDaid’s

3 Harry Street

Originally a morgue, McDaid’s transformation into a pub created one of Dublin’s most characterful drinking establishments. The high ceiling and gothic features create an atmosphere that seems designed for literary contemplation. This was Brendan Behan’s favorite pub, and the spot where Patrick Kavanagh often held court.

Literary Connection: JP Donleavy wrote much of “The Ginger Man” based on observations made in McDaid’s, and the pub features prominently in the novel.

The Bailey

2 Duke Street

Though modernized, The Bailey maintains its connection to Dublin’s literary past. Originally located on Duke Street, it was here that the first copy of James Joyce’s “Dubliners” was burned – by the publisher, not by censors. The pub was owned by the Kenny family, who were great patrons of the arts and allowed writers to drink on credit during lean times.

Literary Connection: Regular patrons included James Joyce, Oliver St. John Gogarty, and later, Brendan Behan and Flann O’Brien.

Mulligan’s

8 Poolbeg Street

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, Mulligan’s has been serving since 1782. Seamus Heaney was a regular visitor during his time teaching at Trinity College, and the pub maintains a shrine to journalist and writer John Kennedy Toole. The pub’s atmospheric interior remains largely unchanged since its 19th-century heyday.

Literary Connection: James Joyce featured the pub in “Dubliners,” and it’s said that Judy Garland once sang here.

Toner’s

139 Baggot Street Lower

Notable as the only pub that W.B. Yeats would frequent (though he reportedly only drank sherry), Toner’s maintains its Victorian character with snugs and partitions intact. The pub’s connection to literature continues through its association with the nearby Parsons Bookshop, which brought many writers through its doors.

Literary Connection: Beyond Yeats, Patrick Kavanagh and Bram Stoker were known to drink here.

Neary’s

1 Chatham Street

With its famous brass doors and Victorian elegance, Neary’s has long been associated with both the literary world and Dublin’s theater scene due to its proximity to the Gaiety Theatre. The pub maintains strict rules about music and mobile phones, creating an atmosphere conducive to conversation and contemplation.

Literary Connection: Brendan Behan, Patrick Kavanagh, and Flann O’Brien all drank here, often between sessions at other nearby pubs.

The Long Hall

51 South Great George’s Street

One of Dublin’s most beautiful Victorian pubs, The Long Hall features ornate woodwork and red and white striped walls that have remained unchanged for over a century. While not as explicitly literary as some other pubs, it features in various works of contemporary Irish literature.

Literary Connection: Modern writers like Anne Enright have featured the pub in their work, and it remains a favorite among Dublin’s creative community.

Tips for Literary Pub Exploration

Timing Your Visit

• Many of these pubs are busiest in the evening
• Weekend afternoons are ideal for appreciating the historic interiors
• Consider joining a literary pub crawl for expert guidance

Etiquette

• Photography may be restricted in some pubs
• Remember these are working pubs, not museums
• Respect the locals who frequent these establishments

Making the Most of Your Visit

• Read relevant literary works beforehand
• Take time to appreciate the historic details
• Strike up conversations with bar staff who often have extensive knowledge of their pub’s literary connections

Literary Pub Crawl Route

For those wishing to create their own literary pub crawl, here’s a suggested walking route:

1. Start at The Palace Bar
2. Walk to Davy Byrnes
3. Continue to McDaid’s
4. Visit Neary’s
5. Finish at Toner’s

This route covers approximately 1.5 kilometers and can be completed in an afternoon, allowing time for a drink and exploration at each location.

Conclusion

Dublin’s literary pubs offer more than just a place to drink – they provide a tangible connection to the city’s rich literary heritage. These establishments have preserved not just their historic interiors but also the spirit of literary Dublin, where conversation, storytelling, and the art of words continue to flourish over a well-poured pint.

Remember that these pubs are still very much living institutions, not simply tourist attractions. The best way to experience them is to settle in with a drink, strike up a conversation, and perhaps even bring along a book. You never know – you might be sitting in the very spot where Joyce, Behan, or Kavanagh once found inspiration.